New York has been a beautiful state with plenty of challenges and rewards. This is the state where I received the most epic trail magic I’ll probably get on this entire trip, considered throwing in the towel again, got rained on for the most consecutive hours, made a friend who turned into a hiking buddy, developed my trail legs, and met dozens of other thru hikers in a matter of just a few days. It is the state where I started to really feel that I am where I’m meant to be right now. It is the state where I’ve introduced myself as Half Pint for others to say with a smile, “Oh, I’ve heard of you!”
The good thing about New York, for me, is that I feel connected to the AT community at large so much more than I did while I was in PA or NJ. Granted, I was arguably not out long enough consecutively and was going through too many of my own personal struggles to be very receptive to what the Trail had to offer back then, but still. This past week in NY has been a solid one.
Instead of going through a typical narrative about how each day went, what I ate, who I met, bla bla bla, I’m going to just paint a few pictures for you. Vignettes, if you will. Part of why I’m choosing this is because I’m writing this using my thumbs only, tapping away at my iPhone‘s screen from inside my tent at 8:19pm. It’s been a long day of hiking, and brevity has its merits, anyway.
The day I started back on the Trail near the NJ/NY border, I hiked to a place called the Bellvale Creamery, compulsively bought a scoop of sorbet the size of my palm for $4, and scanned the parking lot for a woman by the name of Josie. What she was supposed to look like, I had no clue. But I could guess by the sound of her voice over the phone and affinity for the word “sweetheart” that she might be past middle age.
I realized I’d probably found her when someone honked angrily at a busted-up car that proceeded to teeter screechily into the parking lot: an old woman with white hair and tiny, white-knuckled hands gripped the steering wheel and peered above it as though staring into dense fog. That’s Josie was my first thought. I wish that weren’t Josie was the second.
But I was a desperate hiker whose standards have been lowered in just about every way. I hopped into Josie’s car after stuffing my pack into the trunk. She proceeded to ask what’s your name sweetheart and where are you heading and where are you from as though I were a granddaughter. I felt as much like family when she asked me to get her a coke at the gas station before dropping me off (I‘m addicted, sweetheart—I drink anywhere between 12 to 17 of dees a day) and painstakingly tried to count out a dollar in mostly nickels, only for me to tell her not to worry, I didn’t mind at all. She pulled out of the gas station parking lot not with one fluid reverse and a lurch forward toward the street, but with about a 9-point turn that I was surprised didn’t result in another angry horn blaring. See, Anna, the power steering’s out. It‘s out, Anna, because some guy told me he’d come fix it and I paid ’im an‘ all, but he never came.
I liked Josie too much to complain, but I was admittedly relieved when we pulled up to the Warwick Drive-In Theater where I’d be camping that night. The owners let thru hikers camp and watch the movies there for free. I came halfway through every movie being shown and resigned to set up my tent in the dark. The muted sound of the movies playing in other’s cars far away didn’t keep me up, though. I was just grateful to have arrived safely after my somewhat nerve-wracking ride with the most frighteningly unstoppable 77 year-old I’ve ever met.
The sun literally felt like it was beating down on us. My new hiking buddy, Recess, and I tried to use conversation to distract each other from the intense heat. I watched sweat bead from the pores on my forearms within minutes of wiping them dry. I stopped bothering. Sweat dripped from my nose, chin, elbows, back, and legs in a constant stream. I wasn’t so much annoyed by the look or smell of it, but by how much water I knew I needed to drink to make up for it all. I stopped being thirsty. I started drinking as involuntarily as breathing so that I could keep going. But even with the water with electrolytes, snacks, breaks, and slow pace, I was still lucky to walk one mile each hour. My pack felt double its actual weight. It was miserable.
I tried not to bother Recess with the thoughts that seemed to swelter even in my mind. I tried to talk with her about her home and family and thoughts on her hike so far. My mind constantly came back to how oppressively hot it was and the reminder to drink more water and hasn’t it been ten miles yet.
Recess told me while we took what must have been our 100th break that she was staying in a motel that night to get out of the heat. I settled on joining her within minutes of her inviting me.
A few hours of schlepping onward and we were getting a ride from a couple in a dented and rusting minivan. They were so kind and didn’t hesitate to open the door for us and ask us if we needed anything. They shook their heads at our being out in this kind of heat as the mustached husband puffed his cigar. I thanked them for the ride, especially since the guy driving flashed his police badge to us before pulling out, letting us know he’s a retired cop, and since hitchhiking is technically illegal in NY. He shook his head at this and waved the idea away with his cigar-wielding hand. Youse guys are the heart and soul of America, alright? Don‘t even mention it.
As we pulled up to the motel and grabbed our packs, the two of them added a few more look out for each others and take cares before pulling away.
I trekked up the last hill toward the shelter where I’d be staying that night: the Telephone Pioneers Shelter. Ironically, my service was too spotty to call my family or boyfriend to check in. I had just started getting my bear canister and stove out to make dinner when I heard voices in the distance. Soon, they sounded closer and I spotted who it was. Two young kiddos came ambling up the path toward the shelter, weaving side to side as they avoided roots and rocks in their way.
I waved hello and smiled. They shyly smiled back. A bit later, their mom came up behind them and we all started chatting. I asked the two kids if they were twins and the little girl said she wished, but no. She told me her brother was older by a few years and had gotten to go to Mexico when she couldn’t because she was too young. Thus proceeded a small debate about who went to Mexico and when and with whom after I asked about their last trips. The mom smiled at me in a thanks for humoring them kind of way.
I asked the kiddos questions about what they like about hiking and if they go outside a lot and if they meet many thru hikers. I mention that I am a teacher, and the little boy tells me about when his teacher taught them about the Appalachian Trail and counting miles hiked and so on. He starts asking me about what I carry and how I get my water and food. I pull out my bear canister, which weighs around 10 lbs, and ask if he wants to feel it. I plop the whole thing into his small arms which sink as he adjusts to the weight. He bends over for a moment, straightens, and smiles with wide eyes. It’s heaaavvyyyy. I laugh and ask if he wants to carry it for me for a few days. He shakes his head and hands it back quickly.
Both kiddos seem to really be enjoying show and tell and, by now, they’re pointing to things on my pack and asking me what they do. The boy points to my sleeping pad and asks what it is. I pull it out and ask if he wants to try it out, see if it’s comfortable. He and his sister carry it over to the shelter floor, beaming, as they take turns laying on it in different positions. I ask what they think. The boy tells me that it’s surprisingly comfortable and makes me laugh while he rolls back and forth to get a feel for it.
We say goodbye. It is one of my favorite moments on trail so far.
Things I have learned/observations/
curiosities/unsolicited opinions/
reminders to myself
as much as thru hikers talk about being humbled by nature/their journey, there is still a lot of ego wrapped up in our self image (e.g. saying someone else is only or just a section hiker, scoffing at day and section hikers just because they aren’t going as far, low-key criticizing other‘s methods/styles of hiking only to ironically quote the common saying “hike your own hike” afterward, which basically means mind your own damn business and what works for others might not work for you and vice versa, so don’t judge). This is a reminder to myself to embrace all hikers of any ilk and not contribute to an exclusive, cooler-than-thou culture on the AT. It is equally as much a reminder not to bash myself when I cover fewer miles than I’d hoped—attitudes toward other’s abilities are tied to our attitudes toward our own.
thru hikers talk about food, gear, and the weather A LOT
you really do need to hike your own hike, and no one else’s
do not compare your thru hike to anyone else’s thru hike
do not look down on people who are hiking different distances than you AND do not make self deprecating comments aloud about how 8/10/12 miles are so pathetically few because someone nearby has hiked that amount and can hear you
kindly ask for things that you need when you need them—they will most likely be given to you in some form
there is an incredibly strong community of people who love the Appalachian Trail, and many in it are not thru hikers, but they make thru hikers‘ trips so much better
the AT exists because of the efforts of the ATC and the continued work of so many volunteers who have an almost religious dedication to the Trail and what the AT is as a concept
resist any sense of entitlement you might feel to hike any section of trail, because it took a ton of work for that land to be available for your recreation, and we are not entitled to trails that look nice, suit our needs that day, are free of debris and obstacles, etc.
your experience on this hike is an immense privilege and no one owes you anything just because you made the choice to put yourself in an uncomfortable and challenging situation
for every 5 times you hike in a storm and get wet before finding shelter, there will be 1 instance when you get to shelter just in time, and you will be really grateful for that 1 time
be confident and kind around others
everyone really is going through something deeply personal while out here
pretty much everyone is escaping something while out on trail, but some are escaping in order to avoid thinking about what’s next/confronting the past, while others are escaping to confront what they want to do next/what they’ve escaped from
flip-flopping is a challenging thru hike option for someone new to solo long-distance backpacking and should be avoided unless you can mentally know what to expect and come to terms with it (loneliness, comparison, NOBO envy, homesickness, physical lack of conditioning when others have their trail legs, being in multiple “bubbles” and thus having at times inconsistent friend groups, not understanding other’s drama/history/connections with other hikers and thus feeling left out a lot—can you tell yet that most of this is about me?)
the best way to combat #15 is to hike your own hike and find things that make your days fun, especially when you’re all by yourself—you might have to fake it until you make it a little bit, but that’s okay. It will get better and more fun as you go if this is the kind of journey for you.
be confident around other hikers and read their body language/vibe. Only certain people will appreciate your authenticity and will open up to you as a result (be wise enough to know the difference)
I prefer not to over disclose before I know someone well, and to read them before exposing aspects of my story that I am sensitive about/am still actively processing
not everyone who looks like they’re having a great time with their group of hiker friends is actually having a great time with their group of hiker friends
I have seen more Crocs worn out on the trail than I did while teaching high schoolers, which is saying a lot
speaking of that, the Trail can be a lot like high school sometimes. That can be both a good and bad thing.
don’t feel pressured to do something others are doing just because you want to fit in (refer back to #21)
a lot of adults are not as secure being themselves as you’d think
hiker hunger is real. I am so hungry. All the time.
I eat about 6 meals a day with snacks in between and still go to bed hungry sometimes
I love hiking the Appalachian Trail
there are animals watching you while you hike that know way more about the space than you do
there really is something to be said for embracing the suck (allow yourself to laugh at the sheer number of things that suck and how much they suck when it comes to hiking every day)
hiking sucks and hiking is amazing
why anybody would hike is both completely incomprehensible and inherently valid
take advantage of gear company warranties
keep your wits about ya
talk to happy day hikers and enjoy their fresh perspectives and smells
get out of your small hiker world now and then by going to a public place alone (library, café, market, etc.), calling someone back home, listening to a story from a trusted and non-sensational news source, talking to non-thru hikers, thanking someone, etc.
be grateful for (and even thank) those who take you in, give you kind advice, listen, understand, give you their time, and relate to you
I prefer to think not in terms of miles as much as in terms of hours hiked, because it helps me focus more on small goals that have big payoff (e.g. 1 hour=3 miles, 2 hours=6 miles…)
I am one of those people who loves getting lost in a podcast during part of my day while hiking
one of my biggest pet peeves is ants, mosquitos, or other biting bugs getting trapped in my tent without my knowing. I cannot rest until they are gone.
don’t stop in every town/deli/mini mart just to “see what they have” if you want to stay on budget
The best way for me to hike has become the way of zero expectations. I genuinely do not know how far I am going, most of what I will see, who I will meet, and when my trip will end. It is now a trip that is all about experiencing things one day at a time and looking forward to what I will learn along the way.
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